How does line lock work

Another nice feature is you can add a brake light pressure switch right into the housing of the valve to simplify wiring in brake lights. Once mounted, I determined what adapters I needed to run new hard lines from the master cylinder to the valve.

One for input from the front port on the master cylinder and one for exiting to my front brake lines. The right side of the valve I used to locate a brake light switch, Speedway Motors part number Using a brake line tubing bender, Speedway Motors part number allowed me to make kink free bends on the new hard lines.

This compact and easy to use flaring tool is by far the best flaring tool for the best price I have found yet. Simple two-step process gives me a perfect 45 degree flare every time. And compact enough to use right on the car!

With all my hard brake lines ran the way I wanted next up was wiring the valve to the switch and the indicator light that is supplied in the kit. This is a simple wiring set up with just volt power and ground. The switch has a band that can slip over a shifter handle to hold it in place as well. Just follow the included wiring diagram. You will also want to bleed the front brakes once everything is installed. Activating the line lock is simple. When stopped, apply the brake pedal, push and hold the button.

The indicator light will light up showing the valve is working. Release the brake pedal while holding the button and pump the brake pedal again.

Contact your tire manufacturer for a recommendation on appropriate after-burnout tire temperature. This recommendation will help you to determine the length of time you need to heat your tires properly. If necessary, you can shift in the middle of the burnout automatic transmission only to keep the wheel speed in the correct range to achieve the proper temperature. Manual transmission vehicles typically drop the clutch in the gear that will provide the correct wheel speed.

The line-lock solenoid gets installed in-line into the front brake hydraulic circuit or rear-brake circuit if you're racing a front-wheel-drive car. The direct-fit Hurst line-lock system we installed into our test-subject Mustang comes with the pieces required for a clean installation into the vehicle: the line-lock solenoid, pre-bent, direct-fit brake lines, all required electrical connectors, and even the switch and button.

This specific installation differed slightly from the instructions in the form of a different activation button, but the rest of the process remains the same.

Follow along with our captions to see the essential highlights. The solenoid and pre-bent lines are the heart of the system. These pieces allow you to adapt this line-lock kit to your S Mustang, or any supported vehicle application, quickly and painlessly.

For unique and racing applications, Hurst also offers universal kits. Use a dab of threadlocker on the bolts for the mounting bracket — the bracket mounts on the inner master cylinder stud. Use thread sealer tape on the plugs for the solenoid body to prevent leaks under pressure.

The short pre-formed tube installs in-line into the front brake line rear port on the master cylinder and is routed under the master cylinder to the side port on the solenoid body. Protect your paint from spilled brake fluid by stuffing a rag under the master cylinder.

Wipe up any drips and spills immediately. The long pre-formed brake line routes from the front of the solenoid around the master cylinder and into the port that was left empty in the previous step. Connect your wires to the solenoid and run them into the car using the supplied pre-formed convoluted tubing. Here is where our installation differs from the instructions. We used the steering-wheel button mount from Motion Raceworks top mount the line-lock activation button just above the switches on the steering wheel.

He also wired in the included diode from the kit into the brake switch wire as directed in the instructions. This diode ensures that the computer doesn't freak out and trip the PCM into limp mode when the line-lock is activated.

AFAIK its better than line lock because the drivetrain is locked as opposed to just brakes which can be overpowered by the engine.

Trans brake is a solenoid operated valve in the trans valve body. It essentially locks the tranny in foward and reverse at the same time until the actuating button is released. Really puts a shock on the internals but is instant engagement of foward gears. They are also used mostly with other electronic devices, for quicker reaction times and consistency in et's.

Line lock is also a solenoid but is installed in the hydraulic brake line, to lock up the front brakes for burnouts and some even use them on the rear for launching never seen them work for that to well. They are button or switch operated too, but only releases the brakes and has nothing to do with the trans. Old Guy , Jun 12, Line lock is for burnouts and burnout contests.

Transbrakes are for race cars. The main purpose of a trans brake is so that a driver can mat the gas at the line with the transbrake engaged, and the car will not move. When the button is released and a delay box is not used the car is already wide open and it will instantly go. No waiting for the throttle to open, secondaries to come in, timing to advance, etc Also, they're more consistent than just footbraking at the launch The driver's eye-foot coordination is worse than eye-hand coordination, plus with the use of a delay box you can get near perfect reaction times consistently and easily yes, "box" racing is easier than footbraking!

Don't try a transbrake on the street.. It just blows the tires off instantly. It'd come up on the converter stall , light turns green and he'd release the button No wonder the motor didn't last long!

Line locks were originally designed for standard-shift cars so that they wouldn't roll through the lights at the starting line while the driver had one foot on the clutch and one on the throttle. I remember how much of a challenge it was driving my old Mustang 5 speed without a line lock. Good thing I wear size 15 shoes Last edited: Jun 12, Vehicle: 70 mav, 71 grabber, 73 Comet, f crew cab diesel, f, explorer, Gold Wing trike. The transbrake sounds like it would be hard on internal transmission parts, as well as other driveline parts.

For a daily street driver, I think I will install a cheaper and less invasive line-lock. Line lock will free up my rear brakes for burnouts.